Papagayo, the dirt track and the hire car
These are the most photographed coves in Lanzarote and they sit inside a protected area, the Los Ajaches Natural Monument. That has a practical consequence which surprises many people on arrival: the surfaced road ends and a dirt track begins.
What to know before taking the car
Access to the coves is along an unsurfaced track, with controlled entry at the boundary of the protected area. The track has potholes and stretches of loose stone, and it is driven slowly.
Here is the detail that costs money: many car hire contracts exclude driving on unsurfaced tracks. If there is damage to the underside or a tyre, the insurance may not cover it. This is not an urban myth; it is in the contract terms, and it is worth reading before deciding how to go.
The alternatives, and when to pick each
- By car along the track. The most flexible; drive slowly and accept the contract issue.
- By boat from Playa Blanca. Avoids the track entirely and lands directly at the coves. The comfortable option if you would rather not drive on dirt.
- On foot from Playa Blanca. Possible, following the coast. It is an exposed walk with no shade, and you need to carry water.
What the coves do not have
Very little infrastructure. Bring water, food, a parasol and a bag for your rubbish. And there is no natural shade: the coast is low and open.
Why the place is like this and not developed
Because it is a Natural Monument. The absence of asphalt, chain beach bars and a large car park is not an oversight: it is the reason the coves still look like the photograph that made you go. In practice, the dirt track is what protects them.
Frequently asked questions
›Can I drive a hire car to Papagayo?
Physically yes, but check the contract: many companies exclude driving on unsurfaced tracks, and access to the coves is along a track. If there is damage to the underside or tyres, the insurance may not cover it.
›Is there a way to get there without driving on dirt?
Yes, by boat from Playa Blanca, which lands directly at the coves and avoids the track completely. You can also walk along the coast from Playa Blanca, but it is an exposed walk with no shade.
›Are there facilities at the beaches?
Very few. It is a Natural Monument and deliberately barely developed: bring water, food, a parasol and a bag for rubbish, because there is no natural shade.