The Órzola ferry, and why that strait is rough
La Graciosa is reached by ferry from Órzola, at the northern tip of Lanzarote. The crossing is short — over the El Río strait — and it is one of those that most surprises anyone who assumes short means calm. That channel has a reputation, and it has earned it.
Why it is rough
The El Río strait is a narrow channel between Lanzarote and La Graciosa, with the Risco de Famara — a wall hundreds of metres high — right alongside. In a passage like that three things combine:
1. Wind accelerated by the channel effect between two land masses.
2. Current, because the water has to squeeze through a narrow gap.
3. Cross swell, with the Atlantic coming in from the side.
The result is that a crossing of a few kilometres can move considerably more than you expect.
What you can do about it
- If you get seasick, take the tablet before boarding, not when you first feel something: by then it does not work in time.
- Go outside and look at the horizon. Inside the cabin is the worst place.
- Eat something light beforehand. Travelling on an empty stomach makes it worse, not better.
- And plan for the return. The return crossing feels worse when you are already tired and sun-beaten.
The practical side of the ferry
There are several departures a day and the crossing is short. Órzola is in northern Lanzarote, so from the south of the island there is a good drive to the port: that has to go in the day’s plan.
And one thing people forget: the last boat back. On an island with no airport, missing it means sleeping there, and accommodation is scarce. Know that time from the start and do not cut it fine.
If you are going and returning the same day
That is the usual pattern and it works, but the day structures itself: arrive, go to one beach or ride around the island, eat, get back to the port with margin. Trying to fit three beaches and the full circuit is what makes people miss the boat.
The detail almost nobody checks
With swell the ferry may not run, like any other crossing. If your only window for La Graciosa is one particular day, bear that in mind: it is an island with a single door.
Frequently asked questions
›Is the ferry to La Graciosa rough?
It can move considerably more than a short crossing suggests. The El Río strait combines wind accelerated by the channel, current from the narrowing and cross swell from the Atlantic. If you get seasick, take the tablet before boarding.
›How long is it from southern Lanzarote?
A good drive: Órzola is at the island’s northern tip. That leg has to go in the day’s plan on top of the ferry, which is why a trip to La Graciosa takes the whole day.
›What happens if I miss the last boat?
You stay the night, and accommodation on the island is scarce. Know the time of the last return from the start and get back to the port with margin rather than to the minute.